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Found 18 results

  1. Shimano Dura-Ace cranks polished 170mm long, what you see in the pics is what you get $180 posted
  2. GDay BMX Grubs Shimano DX Cranks - you all know the specs: Adjustable length, one key release, axle stamped "CR-Mo for Motocross". With box but i dont remember if it is the OG box (box has "gold" written on it), also dont recall if these were re-annoed, i'd say they were, not OG decals. The red colour is sweet, no fade, a nice red. Overall good condition, few scratches on pedal end, this is easily covered up with some nail polish or even red nikko pen. $1000 posted to AUS.
  3. Mongoose mid school cranks in good condition, come with matching Mongoose pedals, SR 44t chainwheel and bottom bracket. $60.00 pick up $70.00 posted Thanks TonyZ....
  4.,3978 History of the Profile Crank The Profile three-piece crank is one of the most iconic parts in BMX. It's impact has been huge since the day it hit the market in 1980, and it's still going strong today. Tech-heads love to know the stories behind the parts, so we had Profile's Jim Alley run down the history of the Profile three-piece crank for you. Great stuff—thanks Jim! History of the Profile Crank When did Profile make its first three-piece crankset, and how did it come about? In 1979 Profile Racing was (and still is) a well-established racecar building company. I decided to add a division to our manufacturing facility. This decision came about because of my son and daughter’s early interest in BMX racing. When we started going to local races, I, with my fabricating background, started to take a close look at the equipment that was being used, particularly the crank arms. All of them were 1-piece hunks of iron and a heavy rotating mass on top of that. I thought there was definitely a need for change and innovation. That year we designed and made prototypes and our first production crankset was sold in 1980. How much has the design changed over the years? What were some of the areas that have been improved, and what are some points that have been dialed from the beginning? Well, the original arms I made were fabricated from sheet metal. They were square or box crankarms. We still use the chromemoly 48-splined spindle and sealed bearing, but now we manufacture the arms from chromemoly tubing. Not much from the original design has changed. Some things have changed by market demand, for instance, bottom brackets have changed in popularity from American to European to Spanish to Mid. Titanium is being used to lighten the weight and now we’re hollowing out the chromemoly spindle for weight and cost savings. Aside from making cranks under the Profile name, what other companies have you made cranks for? Currently we make cranks exclusively for Profile Racing and our Madera BMX brand, but we have, in the past, made them for Hutch, Powerlite, GT, Haro, and a BMX company called Boss. History of the Profile Crank Have Profile cranks always been made in Florida? Have you ever thought about going overseas? They have always been manufactured in Florida and yes, we have thought about going overseas to make the crankset but, if we did then we would lose control of the manufacturing process. We then could not guarantee the quality of our crankset as we do now. Plus, our goal has been accomplished here in America: Profile Racing has set and become the standard for the industry and is still made in the USA. We couldn’t say that if it was made in China. How long does it take to make one set of cranks? Each crankset has about 10-steps that it goes through before we ship it to our distributors. In all, I say about 90-minutes for each crankset but that is the cumulative time of all 10-steps. The 10-steps are: 1. Tubing - we start with only the highest quality American manufactured tubing, 4140 chromemoly and titanium bar stock. Profile Racing crank tubing is a special high strength alloy that we have perfected. This tubing is manufactured exclusively for Profile Racing. Deliveries from the mill arrive at our St. Petersburg, Florida manufacturing facility daily. 2. Cutting - the 4140 chromemoly and titanium bar stock are rough-cut. The tubing then will go on to be swage (pronounced swedge) formed and bar stock will go on to be precision machined, drilled and tapped in our CNC lathes. 3. Swaging - the cut crank tubing goes to our rotary forming machines where the tubing is formed into the classic Profile Racing tapered look. This process adds the superior strength to the crank arm blank by realigning the molecular metal structure of the tubing. Taper formed blanks are then cut and sent on to be CNC milled for the large spindle bosses and small pedal basses. 4. Boss Turning - our state of the art CNC lathes automatically machine the bar stock to left arid right hand pedal bosses, large spindle bosses and tubing spacers. The spindle bosses are then sent on to our broaching department where the female 48-spline is broached into the bosses. 5. Crank Arm Milling - our CNC milling machines then form crank blanks. The tubing blanks are placed into special fixtured vises and the ends are precision cut to specific lengths and milled with U-shaped pockets for fitting of pedal and axle bosses. Profile Racing makes over 15 different length crank arms. Precision accuracy is the factor here. 6. Stamping - the precision milled crank blanks are sent on to our 100-ton press brake. Here the arm goes through the final stage of being ovalized and stamped with the Profile Racing logo. Then it’s on to the welding department. 7. Welding - the milled crank arms, pedal and 48-splined axle bosses are then positioned in precision fixtures, tacked and artfully welded by our certified welders who have a combined 100-plus years of welding experience. 8. Spindle Turning - the spindle blanks, both 4140 chromemoly and titanium, are machine drilled and thread tapped to exacting specifications. Precision quality accuracy is a top priority. 9. Axle Hobbing - the drilled and tapped spindles are then spline-hobbed in our CNC hobber. The precision hobbing is very critical so that both sides of the axle have 48-splines that line up perfectly with each other. 10. Finishing Stage - is where the finish (plate or powder coat) is manufactured. Crank arms are ground and polished to prepare them for the triple chrome finish or the black (or other color) powder coat finish. At the completion of this process, all parts arrive at our packaging facility at which point they are boxed and sent off to our awaiting customers. Click here When making cranks, what testing methods do you use to make sure they are strong enough? Right now, the current Profile Racing crank design has been “time tested.” I mean, the design has been tested by its longevity in the market. If we change any component of the crankset then we do material testing and tinsel strength testing then real time, and real world testing with our factory riders. The Profile three-piece crank is an iconic product in BMX. Is that something that you expected or does it surprise you? I don’t think that I’m surprised, like being surprised that “something happened unexpectedly.” This company has worked hard to get where it is today and it wasn’t easy. My original objectives have not changed. I wanted to design and build 1) a crankset that was lightweight and strong, 2) a crankarm that could be taken on and off easily so arm size could be changed, 3) an axle that had superior strength with no flex, 4) sealed bearings and 5) a sprocket setup that could be changed quickly for differing gearing and track conditions. What is surprising is that Profile Racing set the standard for the BMX industry and 30-years later, we are still the leading American-made crank manufacturer and still setting the standards high with our complete product line. What is that you think makes Profile cranks unique? What we originally thought was the uniqueness of Profile Racing cranks has today become the industry standard. That is, our 48-splined spindle and tubular designed crankarms. If I had to pick something that makes Profile cranks unique today, it would be our Limited Lifetime Warranty and that Profile Racing cranks are still made in the USA.,3978
  5. I have an 87 Kuwahara Bravo Team I've owned since new & I need to get cranks to replace the 1 piece thats on it now. I cracked the original Peregrine cranks not long after i bought the bike. I've been looking at putting new Redline on it? They look much the same to me. Can someone tell the difference? Cheers, Jason...
  6. 1st gen Boss Racing Products cranks including the original spider and spindle. The 1st gen cranks are 24 spline. Second gen Boss cranks are 10 spline and the 3rd gen are 48 spline.
  7. Trying to find out a bit more on my Boss Gen 1 23/24 spline cranks. Does anyone know what years they were in production? Cheers
  8. Delete if not allowed these days. Thanks& cheers.
  9. Help needed to ID
  10. I need some advice from my more enlightened piers here. I brought a set of early 80's tagani tourney cranks and thought I'd restore them for my 83 redline 600a. Took them to my local anodising shop and they stripped them and said I need to polish them up before they can be anode. I asked them not to ano the crank arm faces and face of the spider as these are highly polished and the original ano was in the course texture inserts only in these areas. However they've told me they can only ano the whole lot and not part of leaving those faces in a natural alloy finish and I'd have to do the hole lot then machine these faces back to metal and then polish. I'm thinking this may look a bit crud where the ano meets the bare alloy faces, and a nice straight line here may not be produced as the ano treatment is removed as it may chip and flake along this line. Whats to G O guys are they leading me down a garden path to failure or is this what I need to do to restore these to original specs?? I'm sure people refinish these types of cranks but I can't find much info on this on line. Please give me the good oil
  11. Hi All, I have some very nice Campagnolo parts for sale as a package only at this stage. PM if interested in individual parts but package deal gets preference. Campi Record Hubs with BMX conversion axles Campi Strada Cranks 170 with 42t Chain Ring Cranks have some scrapes but are otherwise in good condition, Hubs have been lightly polished and show some marks from previous builds. PACKAGE DEAL $265.00 posted Aust Wide. Less for pick up. Dibs in thread please, P/P or D/D Ok. Thanks, TonyZ...
  12. Hi guys, I am currently looking for a set of 1981 dura ace cranks for my team goose. I know that they are 170 or 175mm, but need to find what the model number is for a set of these cranks as I want to get the right year obviously. There are so many options out there, it's hard to decipher what's what ! Any help much appreciated.
  13. Sugino CT cranks in top condition including bottom bracket set. $300 posted Aust wide - PP or DD is fine.
  14. I want to re-chrome the crank arms and powder coat the chain ring spider on a set of Sugino CT 3-piece cranks. What is the best process for this. Do I need to remove the chain ring spider, if so, how do I go about remove the spider adapter. Any tips would be appreciated.
  15. I'm rebuilding my old baby blue dyno to give away to a needy kid. I haven't found a candidate yet. If I haven't by the time it's done, I can liase with local group. There's a bmx track in the poorer part of town. I'll try and get a pic of the recipient. I have everything I need, except 3 pc cranks for a US bottom bracket. Need some hollow chromoly ones 19 or 22mm US BB. also an oldschool stem 21.1 Iam in NZ. I have a post on the for sale. If any of that stuff sells, I'll put it toward this build/ also could help with postage. I'll start the build on the 'builds' section.
  16. I have a set of Primo Powerbite cranks, I'm pretty sure they are Gen 1 from what i've read. Does anyone know what years these were made? I want to know if they would be a suitable 'period' for my 1998 Eastern Commando.
  17. Hi guys, I'm building a couple of geese... I've searched around for answers to these question and found some but would just like the input of our resident Mongoose experts here, I've search all I can on Vintage and through the flyers etc and Museum and so on. I also understand that Mongoose often changed parts mid model and had older run over parts onto new models until they got rid of stocks, So I'm not asking for 100% this was on that bike etc, just a close enough clarification to make sure im putting the correct error parts on. The models that im trying to allocate parts to are 1980 Mongoose II 1981 Mongoose II 1980 Supergoose 1981 Supergoose 1984 Californian The parts are Stamped Headset Stamped BB Nut Stamped Cranks & Length Here are some pictures of parts im trying to allocate, if you have pictures of correct parts other than these can you post them up and give year/model details Any guidance would be much appreciated Headset 1 Headset 2 (im not sure this is Mongoose at all but it came with a stamped nut) ? BB Nut 1 BB Nut 2 If you can help you can copy and paste this into a post with the correct part Stamped Headset 1980 Mongoose II = 1981 Mongoose II = 1980 Supergoose = 1981 Supergoose = 1984 Californian = Stamped BB Nut 1980 Mongoose II = 1981 Mongoose II = 1980 Supergoose = 1981 Supergoose = 1984 Californian = Stamped Cranks & Length 1980 Mongoose II = 1981 Mongoose II = 1980 Supergoose = 1981 Supergoose = 1984 Californian = Thanks in advance... SLY
  18. Hi Everyone, quick question. I am trying to 'crank out' my mono shock, what legth axel (cotter pin) do I need? From what I can see, cotter pin cranks have small offset and will need to to clear the pivot bolt behind the BB. I have made some enquiries, told the width should be 110-115mm but cotter pin axels seem to be measured by total with, ie 145, 147mm etc. Any help would be appreciated. Dale.