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Found 6 results

  1. Abandoned project. Great old vintage bike to start working on. The only damage I could see what a small flake/chip on the neck (see photo), other than some extremely light scuffing. Prefer pickup from Brisbane. I found this write-up on the Burner series: Raleigh were a little slow to enter the BMX market and didn't get a range of bikes together until around 1982. The original line-up consisted of five bikes:The Raleigh Burner was the bog standard model and sold by the shed load. It had a steel frame and forks, steel rims and cranks and - I think - alloy V-handlebars.The next model - the Tuff Burner - was a little more expensive and featured yellow Skyway Tuff II mag wheels, but other wise the two bikes were identical.Next up was the SuperBurner - essentially a Burner but with a kind of gold chrome finish on the frame. It looked pretty trick but if memory serves the spec was about the same as the standard Burner.By the time you get to the Ultra Burner however, things move up a gear. Araya 7X rims, Suntour loose bearing hubs, Sugino one-piece chro-moly cranks and spyder with alloy chainring and Suntour power handlebar stem were pretty trick for a bike bought in Halfords. The frame was the same steel frame as the Burner (but with a different finish) but the forks were chrome Tange TX1200W items, though (I think) still made from steel and not chro-moly. Alloy V handlebars and budget, but genuine, dia-compe brakes complete the Ultra Burner.This was my first bike and retailed in Halfords for £130. Mine however came from the Earls Court motorcycle show 'Bike '82' in which Ammaco had built a wooden BMX track and were running demos throughout the exhibition. A dealer at the show was offering Ultra Burners for £117. The £13 saving represented quite a few weeks of my paper round so it was worth it. And I'll never forget my overwhelming joy as I wheeled my new bike out of Earls Court - still flat packed and wrapped in cardboard - having worked and waited for two years to finally afford my own BMX bike!Top of the range was the Pro Burner. Similar spec to the Ultra Burner but with a full Chro-moly frame and forks with 'race proven' geometry. I think it retailed for around £225 and as such I didn't see too many of these around.The Raleigh Burner range went on to become one of the best known brands in BMX at the absolute street level. Parents knew and trusted Raleigh's name and reputation and the 1985 UK race team line up of Andy Ruffell, Craig Schofield, Martin Jose and Stu Diggins gave Raleigh real credibility on the race circuit.Raleigh was to the UK what Huffy was to the USA. Lest we forget the importance of the humble Burner
  2. I brought this from the UK over 10 years ago (paid more than $200 back then), but after collecting a few cool accessories, the project was eventually abandoned. The bike was repainted by the guy I brought it off, so unsure of the original colour. The only damage I could see was a small flake/chip on the neck (see photo), other than that some extremely light scuffing from being blanketed in storage. Pickup from Auchenflower or buyer to organise transport. _MG_5041.CR2 _MG_5044.CR2 _MG_5045.CR2 _MG_5048.CR2 _MG_5050.CR2 _MG_5052.CR2 _MG_5054.CR2 _MG_5055.CR2 _MG_5060.CR2
  3. After months of waiting forks arrived yesterday and the build is underway. Fitted the cups, headset (Hatta MX100), forks and chucked on the clamp (nos dc). She's going to be a rider but with some nos parts. I've got all the bits so hoping to get this done quick.
  4. Hey fellas this is the frame i scored off the bay recently, it's a pretty rare frame apparently , only a couple on BMXMUSEUM (Rerun owns one) He told me the correct forks were Cyclepro forks, a little like tange he said. ( if anyone has one let me know eh) The frame has a Chromoly front end with mild steel chainstays, it's not real light but is in good condition for a 1980 frame. The geometry is meant to be the same as a Pk Ripper or a Looptail Quad perhaps. I'm still decided whether i should build it up, i probably will as i don't like looking at a lonely frame. Here's some shot's i took Cheers
  5. Anyone ever seen one of these? It has no numbers. I am assuming 90's because of the brake mounts. Picked this up today at the tip shop. It has some damage. But for $3. I think it might be worth playing with. Yeah I realise those cranks have a crack, but they might look just fine on a non-rider.
  6. This thread is seriously overdue! But luckily I've been keeping a build diary on my blog at http://www.lixbmx.co...!madison-taipan so fingers crossed I should be able to bring this thread up to speed pretty quickly for those who are interested This is my current build - the 1979 ‘Phase I’ Madison Taipan looptail, off the same Koizumi factory line as the identical (in every way, bar the gusset hole) Diamondback Large Pro frame of the same year but even scarcer, it seems. One of those needle-in-a-haystack right-place-right-time scores that makes you squeak with joy when you take it out of the box and see that little Koizumi baseball symbol! Light and beautifully made, as you'd would expect from Koizumi, I can count on one hand the number of these Koizumi Taipan frames that I know exist. A documented history of the early Taipan frames is limited (and disputed), but both the 1979 ‘VM’ serial Taipans (mooted to have come out of the Kuwahara factory, using Tange tubing, as with the early ‘VM’ DB Large Pro) and the succeeding 1979 ‘baseball’ Koizumi Taipans (noticeably better welds + a few other minor differences), appear to have been commissioned as simply a gusset variant to the Diamondback Pro on the same production lines. The history and development of these ‘Phase I’, Japanese manufactured, Madison Taipan frames appears inextricably linked to that of the early DB Pros. (NB. Soldiers in the Great Taipan war of 2012, please lay down your weapons here, I have read the looptail Taipan dispute and acknowledge that there are 2 different schools of thought. This thread is simply about my build, one that I've made an informed choice to build a certain way. I'd be super grateful if the dispute can stay within the bounds of the Taipan History thread and just let this thread be simply about my build. Thanks heaps, in advance! ) Sooooo, with my intrigue-o-meter hitting maximum after much research, I’m inspired to make this a mean custom build worthy of a blue blooded frame. With the frame, along with my chosen forks and bars, heading for Super Gloss (‘Fiola’) Yellow powder coat, and with black and silver parts in the works, I’ve nicknamed the build Bumble-Bee as a tribute to the world-famous-in-New-Zealand yellow and black HMX-500 BMXs of the same era. I mean, when you find a Japanese built, American designed, Aussie frame… why not name it after a slice of Kiwi history? PARTS LIST Frame: 1979 Koizumi Madison Taipan, 4130 Chromoly, baseball serial Forks: Akisu, stamped 1980 Wheels: Skyway Tuff II, sealed bearing, black with Dicta 16T freewheel Cranks: Takagi Tourney 170, black/silver Chain ring: Takagi 130BCD 44T, black Seat clamp: Suntour, black/silver Stem: Sugino DB, black/silver Decals: Custom Madison Taipan Pro Decals, inspired by the DB Large Pro set of the era Pads: Custom Madison Taipan Pro pads, inspired by the DB Large Pro pads of the era Seat: Kashimax, black suede with gold decals Brakes: Dia Compe 890, black, stamped Feb 1982 (+ Odyssey Slim by Four clear pads) Brake Levers: Dia Compe MX124, black, stamped July 1985 Brake Cables: Hi-Tech, black Headset: Neco, aluminium, sealed bearing, black Bars: Race Inc, aluminium Grips: Oury Waffle, black Tyres: Kenda Comp III Chain: Izumi Black/Nickel Chainring bolts: Chromoly, brushed chrome finish Seat Post: Fluted aluminium, black/silver Pedals: Cycle Pro TTK (early 80s) polished aluminium BB: YST sealed square taper FRAME SPECS Material: 4130 Chromoly Head Tube angle: 75° Seat Tube angle: 68° Top Tube length (from point A-B): approx 480mm (18 7/8″) Frame weight: 2.295kg (5lb 1oz) Rear dropout: 3mm (1/8″) Wheelbase: 930mm (36 5/8″) Bottom bracket height: 290mm (11 7/16″) Chainstay length: 375mm (14 3/4″) Serial #: 9J6934⚾ (inside left rear dropout). As my design for the build began to formulate in my head I started by sketching it up. It may seem slightly nuts, but I love letting all my ideas pour out onto the page and see it come together. And it's always fun to look back after the build's finished and see how close my original vision came to the end result... sort of like a personal challenge. The mad thread title will probably start to make sense a bit more sense now...