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Found 14 results

  1. I have been researching easy ways to breathe new life into some very damaged yet awesome old school and early mid school alloy chainwheels. Most of the ones that come off bikes I purchase are well used with a ton of scratches and wear with faded or practically non-existent screen printed graphics. A very challenging part to restore. Here are my attempts - if you have any photos of chainwheels you have restored or are attempting, share them here.
  2. In the past reflectors on any bike I've owned were the first thing to go. However over the last few years I have grown fond of 80's pedals with reflectors intact. Now, when I build most bikes- even my riders - I want to use pedals that have reflectors intact. I've not gone to wheel or front rear reflectors yet, but I fear I might be heading that way. What's your view on pedal reflectors yes or no?
  3. A lot of the bikes I rebuild require the small parts (bolts, nuts etc) to be restored. Rust removed etc so they can be re-used. Stem bolts are a great example, once the rust is removed by either citric acid or grinding off. The bolts need to be protected from rust again. In the past I have either sprayed them in black, or used a clear coat to seal them, I've never really been that happy with the result, but there isn't too many options. I recently did some research into the black oxide process to see if anything can be done at home. There are some kits and most use chemicals, which I'm not interested in (I have small children). A few months ago I found a video on YouTube that showed the old school way to get blackening on metal using heat from oxy torch and old, really dirty, used motor oil. Today I put the process to the test. I had already picked up a couple of litres of old oil from my mechanic last time I had my car serviced, his look of 'what the' was gold. Anyways, I busted out my trust butane can, poured a bowl of the black stuff out and set to work. The oil has to be really used and dirty, it's the impurities in the oil that burn off and are embedded into the metal. The older, darker, sludgier the oil, the better the black finish. There is no point doing this with new oil as all you will get is brown parts, not black. I started with these bolts. Pretty bad condition, virtually unuseable as they are. They look terrible. A quick clean up with the dremmel makes them slightly better. Inside the ends is still rusty and there is just bare metal showing. Re-rust will hit them in no time. Heat the bolt head up, doesn't need to be glowing red or anything, just get it hot. Dip it in the oil and light the oil. It will burn away. Dont keep applying the heat from the butane. Let the oil burn away by itself. The flame will go out and re-dip the head again in the oil. Light the oil again with the butane torch and let the oil burn away again. Keep repeating this until your bolt is totally black. Probably 4-5 dips and burns. Repeat again if you need blacker bolts. The process doesn't work so well of bolts that have chrome left over. You need to grind the chrome off. If the bolt is lumpy from rust pitting, it will remain lumpy. For best results clean up the bolts or parts before allying the black finish. These bolts have come up much better than they were. Onto some crappy crank nuts. Heavily rusted stem bolts. Two on the left are before. Two on the right have had a heavier grind back before clean with Dremmel. Much better, they can actually be used now. Happy Crupi Stem with it's bolts re-blackened. This is a really easy thing to do, and gets great results. Takes a little longer than painting, but way better and much more old school, original looking finish. I don't know what the process is called and I cant find the original video anymore. Give it a crack. Cheers for reading. B
  4. I've had a crack at restoring old school vinyl pads a couple times now. Thought I'd start a thread on it. I'd love to hear your technique and what works for you. Sounds pretty obvious, but rusted together snaps come apart very easy with a spray of WD40 and a gentle pry with a flat head screw driver. Next thing is to bring back as much of the original colour as possible. To do this I use acetone, a clean rag and cotton buds. Wet the cotton bud in acetone and carefully wipe around the printed lettering. Get as close to the lettering as possible without touching it. Do not wipe the acetone over any printed area or it will dissolve it and destroy the printing. For the larger areas I use a clean rag and my finger - again being very careful not to touch the printing. The acetone basically strips a fine layer of the vinyl away. So be careful not to keep rubbing away at the same spot. You will eventually have no vinyl left. To clean the printed areas I use Metho and a clean rag. The Metho isn't as strong as acetone, so those areas might not look quite as clean as the other, but its fine on the print. Of course, always try on a small area first - your pads may be different to mine. If the metho leaves a bit of a dull finish, wipe over with mineral turps. Seems to bring back a bit of a shine. Once the vinyl is all clean, it's time to get the rust off the snaps. A 24hr or so bath in a citric acid mix is perfect. Same strength as you'd use for a frame. Rust will wipe away as usual. Once dry the snaps should get a layer of clear coat, use a small art brush rather than spray. If clear coat isn't your thing, use some lanolin spray. Finished product...
  5. Brake Lever Restoration Kits - Now In Stock Restoration Kits for MX120, MX121, MX122, MX123, MX128 and Tech 77 Levers Available Here http://www.bmxworks.com.au/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=356
  6. My 1981/2 Redline MXII came with a set of very rough ACS Hubs. Since the bike has been pulled down they have sat on my work bench waiting to have something done to them. Today I started. Here's a pic of how they started. The front and rear were in the same condition.
  7. I have just started pulling this 1998 Mongoose Sniper Mag down. I have a set of chrome freestyle kneesaver bars that will replace the rusted out ones, BUT i will need a new decal sticker set. Rust everywhere, everything ceased, so this will be a challenging restoration. First job removing the cranks took 1.5 hrs. The rusted on pedals were mighty difficult to get off. The stem is ceased in the forks so slow process there, and the freewheel is ceased on the hub. The original Matt Blazing Blue looks great. ' If anyone has a set of 1998 Sniper decals, i'd be interested. I'll put up more pics and I'll be writing up the build on my blog as I progress. Cheers B
  8. I need some advice from my more enlightened piers here. I brought a set of early 80's tagani tourney cranks and thought I'd restore them for my 83 redline 600a. Took them to my local anodising shop and they stripped them and said I need to polish them up before they can be anode. I asked them not to ano the crank arm faces and face of the spider as these are highly polished and the original ano was in the course texture inserts only in these areas. However they've told me they can only ano the whole lot and not part of leaving those faces in a natural alloy finish and I'd have to do the hole lot then machine these faces back to metal and then polish. I'm thinking this may look a bit crud where the ano meets the bare alloy faces, and a nice straight line here may not be produced as the ano treatment is removed as it may chip and flake along this line. Whats to G O guys are they leading me down a garden path to failure or is this what I need to do to restore these to original specs?? I'm sure people refinish these types of cranks but I can't find much info on this on line. Please give me the good oil
  9. Hi everybody! I am a newbie from Melbourne and after many years of nagging my sister she finally sold me her old Torker Kickback! Now that I finally have it I'm divided on what to do with it. I was originally thinking of doing a ground up, fresh out the box restoration but after seeing a few custom killer Kickback/ Vagabonds on here I'm torn. It really comes down to how much of my kickback is original so I have added some photos and was hoping that you guys could help share some information about the Torker kickback and what parts they had fitted fresh out the factory. Just by having a look over it the parts on it are: Rims - Rhyno Sun Rims Rear Brake - Dis compe ad990 Front Brake - ? Handle Bars - PZ company Crank Plate - ? Brake Levers - Tektro Pedals - VP550 Crank - ? Seat Post - ? Pegs - ? Grips? The seat is a generic gel seat and the tyres are GT Any information you guys have will be much appreciated! Cheers
  10. OK, so I have a few tins of McKenzies Citric Acid from Coles. What's the best ratio to use with water to get my rusty old frames sparkling again? PS. Sorry I know this topic gets asked a lot. I did do a search on this topic and couldn't see specific references to ratios. Except one. 16:1 is that a good starting place? Help appreciated.
  11. Hey guys, I'm restoring a Cyclops Amaroo and desperately looking for decals/artwork. No shortage online of people who knew or owned them back in the day, but I can't find a photo of one anywhere. I'd rather not reproduce the decals from memory (we're talking 35 years +) so just putting this out there in case anyone has an image (no matter how grainy or blurry) or a frame with even a shred of the decals remaining. There's a free set of stickers in it for anyone who can help in any way. Cheers and sorry to start a topic just for this long shot.
  12. Picked up this 84 Torker mini on evilbay on Grand Final weekend. I had no idea that its a rare lil bmx compared to most others & theirs only two on the museum. Mini T arrived today & i attacked the chrome with some of the Fishmans QuickGlo paste. Most of the rust is coming off with some effort. I'll sweet talk PhilMXII into giving the chrome a lite buff for me. The wheelset is Campy Hubs, Araya Aero rims, need to replace the spokes & have no idea where to find the tyres. Enjoy Mini T & i'll post up progress pics. 3 piece aluminum bars with lil power bends. This helps clean up the chrome without even touching it.....amazing!
  13. Hey guys, I am new to the forum but an old school bmx fan for many years. I used to race in the 80's around Victoria and interstate. I have a bunch of BMX gear still from my childhood such as a DB Formula 1, full DB race clothing, over 100 BMX trophies, wheels and parts. I brought a DB turbo lite not long ago that I am restoring. Can some recommend a painter around Sydney that can repaint in tint. Thanks in advance. Paul
  14. Hi All, Spotted Savages awesome Vagabond build and jope to complete something just as nice. Never liked the Vagabond much, but seeign the few on here that have been restored has changed my mind. Picked up this very rough example from ebay, and got it shipped, special thanks to Joobs Plenty of pics to follow of before and after. Although its hard to remember to always get the before pic. Sometimes I'm just in too big a rush to clean stuff up.